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I look at Sophie again and offer a sheepish shrug.


Back in the day, saunas were shared among finnish of a single neighborhood or apartment complex, but readily available hot running water rendered these public spaces obsolete. Lately, however, renewed interest in sharing the steam with strangers has spurred a women of sauna renaissance in Helsinki. I was on a mission to explore as many of them as I could.

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Stepping from the cab into the snowy countryside we walk toward a friendly looking farmhouse — a comforting bit of civilization amidst the unfamiliar darkness. A blast of frosty air rushes past us into a primitive room that glows in the firelight. We push the door shut quickly to ward off the cold, embarrassed by the spectacle our arrival created.

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Two women wrapped maxi-dress-style in long, flax-colored towels sit at a farm table that occupies a good part of the room, candles and glasses of water on the table in front of them, a rustic loaf of brown bread finnish a cutting board waiting to be sliced.

Shrugging out of our heavy coats, we feel around in the semi-darkness for an empty peg to hang them, trying not to further disrupt the atmosphere of serenity.

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We had decided during the cab ride women leave our inhibitions in the city, committed to experiencing the ex-urban Finnish cute girl cum in the traditional buff.